In love with the Silver Screen
By Rita Goldman

The Maui Film Festival at Wailea has created the best nighttime use for a golf course this side of Cannes-and you don't have to know your Niblick from your putter to enjoy it. Every June, the festival transforms the slopes of the Wailea Golf Club into the "Celestial Cinema," an under-the-stars theater for cutting-edge documentaries and yet-to-be-released feature films. Held June 14 through 18, the 2006 festival will screen more than three-dozen movies, host filmmakers' panels, and throw parties where it's possible to rub shoulders with Hollywood stars. (Last year's celebs included Helen Hunt, Jake Gyllenhaal, Mike Myers, William Macy, Felicity Huffman, and brothers Luke, Andrew, and Owen Wilson.) 

Despite the name, the Maui Film Festival at Wailea is a bicoastal event. Wailea Resort, on Maui's southern shores, hosts the festival's parties and three outdoor sites for films: the scenic Celestial Cinema, the Maui Digital Skydome (a.k.a. the roof of the Wailea Marriott Resort), and the SandDance Theater, on the sand at Wailea Beach. Across the Central Valley in Kahului, the Maui Arts & Cultural Center's Castle and McCoy Theaters provide the more traditional comforts of indoor screenings. 

Staging a weeklong festival in the middle of the Pacific is an adventure of epic proportions. Not surprisingly, films cost more than at the local cineplex; and some of the parties are pricey-but then, they are held at world-class hotels whose chefs outdo themselves. 

To help you get the most for your festival dollar, we asked some reel cognoscenti. Rick Chatenever is entertainment and features editor for The Maui News. He moderates some of the panels, and gets to interview the celebrities. His advice? Decide what kind of festivalgoer you are, and plan your itinerary accordingly. "This is really two festivals," he says. "The Wailea events are much more glitzy, with lots of partying and beautiful people. The opening reception is at the Kea Lani [Hotel], and lots of the stars show up." The deliciously decadent Taste of Chocolate, the Taste of Wailea (a chefs' sampling to die for), celebrity tributes, and the closing night Audience Awards party all offer other possibilities for seeing stars. 

"That's one experience of the Maui Film Festival," says Chatenever. "At the same time, you've got the festival at the Maui Arts & Cultural Center. Here the focus is on the films." Movies are shown only once, and the MACC and Wailea are a good half-hour apart, so seeing your favorite flicks takes planning. Parking's easier at the MACC; Wailea has designated parking and free shuttles. Since Wailea's outdoor screenings can't start till after dark, the best way to get the full flavor of the festival (and still get a good night's sleep) is to stay at the resort-or have a friend in Kihei who'll let you crash on the couch. 

Greg Chou is a financial advisor with Morgan Stanley. Each year his firm sends a bevy of clients to the Taste of Wailea-at nearly $200 apiece. "Going to the Taste is a science in itself," he says. "Get there early, so you can walk down the slope to the Celestial Cinema, stake your spot with your beach chair or blanket, and get back up to the Taste in time to eat all the Spago lamb chops you want." Children aren't permitted at festival events that serve alcohol, so if the whole Chou family is staying at Wailea, "the kids take the shuttle from the hotel and meet us at the movie," says Greg. "You can't get to the films too early," agrees festival worker Nancy Meola. "Come early and you avoid the shuttle lines. There are great refreshments for sale. You can relax, picnic on the lawn, and enjoy the people you're with. Bring a sweater," she adds. "It gets chilly at night." 

The festival offers a variety of movie and event passes. They can save you money and move you to the head of the line, but they don't guarantee entrance to specific films, says Andrea Deane, leading lady of the festival's phone and Internet ticket sales: "If you're not there 15 minutes before curtain, they'll start letting people with individual tickets in. Show up late for a popular film, and you might not get in at all."

The Maui Film Festival at Wailea, June 14-18. Action! Order your tickets on-line-and early. Passes go on sale mid-March; individual tickets toward the end of May. The festival website (www.mauifilmfestival.com) has information on films, special events and  various ticket packages. Tickets are also available at Borders Books & Music in Kahului, the Maui Film Festival's kiosk in The Shops at Wailea, or by phone at (808) 572-3456. Buy passes if you plan on attending several events. They save you money, and get you into films ahead of individual-ticket holders. 

Be early. Movie passes don't guarantee entrance to specific screenings. Show up late for a sell-out film and you're out of luck, pass or no pass. Be early. Tickets to the most popular events, like the Opening Night Reception, sell out quickly. Be early-especially for films showing at the Celestial Cinema. You'll have a shorter wait to catch the shuttle from the designated parking area, and a better opportunity to find the perfect seat. Be comfortable. The SkyDome has chairs; the Celestial Cinema and SandDance Theater have grass and sand, respectively. Bring a beach chair, blanket, pillow-whatever makes you comfortable-within reason. 

Be courteous. Full-size lawn chairs block the view for everyone behind you. And remember, you'll be traveling to the Celestial Cinema by shuttle, along with lots of other people who are also carrying beach chairs, blankets, and pillows. Be prepared. Bring a sweater or jacket. This may be Maui in June, but at outdoor movies, it can still get chilly. Do not bring a cooler. No outside food and beverages are allowed at any of the festival's venues. There is lots of great food for purchase. Do think about the kids. Many of the films at the festival have not yet been rated, and none of the special events that serve alcohol are open to children. (That includes the Taste of Chocolate.) The festival screens several family- and child-friendly movies; bring the kids to those.
 

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Giddyup to Makawao's Rodeo!
By Matthew Burger

Now in its 51st year, the Makawao Rodeo offers folks a chance to witness up-close a slice of island life that dates back centuries. 

Cattle were introduced into Hawai'i before 1800. To build the population, King Kamehameha I issued a kapu (royal ban) on hunting them, and the herd ran free until the late 1820s. That's when Spanish, Mexican, and Portuguese vaqueros were brought in to teach Hawaiians how to catch and break the wild cattle. The Hawaiian word for cowboy, paniolo, has its roots in the Spanish word español. In 1908, the Big Island's legendary Ikua Purdy was crowned world champion at the Frontier Days World Championship rodeo in Cheyenne, Wyoming. 

On Maui, every Fourth of July weekend, Purdy's spirit lives on. This year, the Makawao Rodeo and Paniolo Parade are set for the weekend of July 1, says Maui Roping Club Vice President John Prito. Well over 200 paniolo-men, women, boys, and girls-will participate. "Everyone comes together for this one," Prito explains.  Because of its size, Prito explains that Makawao offers the best prizes of any rodeo in the islands. The rodeo is held at the Oskie Rice Arena, about a mile above Makawao town on Olinda Road-entry is $10. Qualifying runs ("slack days"), which narrow the field for Saturday's official start, are held at 9 a.m. the Thursday and Friday before and are free to the public. (Bull-riding freaks shouldn't miss the free Bull Bash at 7 p.m. Friday night.) 

The Makawao Paniolo Parade, held at 9 a.m. July 1, heralds the official start of the rodeo. The parade runs up Baldwin Avenue to the Eddie Tam Gym on Makawao Avenue and provides an up-close look at the elegant pa'u riders, and rodeo queen and princesses-all in their rodeo best. Get there early; Makawao and Baldwin Avenues close to traffic from 8:45 a.m. until about 11 a.m. (Don't park along either street if you plan on leaving during the parade.) Theresa Thompson, the parade's director, recommends parking up at the arena (for a minimal fee), where a free shuttle will be provided. Prime viewing space along Makawao and Baldwin Avenues goes fast. "About 8,000 people watched last year's parade," says Thompson, whose father, Charley Thompson, was the first parade grand marshal in 1965. If you don't want to stand, bring a beach chair and stake out a good spot. You'll need to stow it for the rodeo. Beach and lawn chairs aren't allowed at the arena, where there's bleachers-only seating. 

Makawao has plenty of shops, galleries, and restaurants, but make sure you get to the rodeo on time. It kicks off at 1 p.m., and seats fill up quickly. (Avoid sitting downwind of the arena, unless you want a mouthful of dust and whatever else that 2,000-pound bull kicks up!) The Makawao Rodeo combines traditional fare such as wahine (female) barrel racing, calf roping, and bareback bronco riding with a few Hawaiian twists, like Po'o Wai U, an event inspired by the way paniolo rounded up wild cattle in the mountains. Outside coolers are prohibited, but fresh country pickings like hamburgers and steak will be available for purchase, as well as soft drinks, beer, and even wine. Rodeo program guides are also available for purchase at the gate. 

Makawao Rodeo & Paniolo Parade, July 1-3. Wanted: Do bring lots of sunscreen or your best cowboy hat. Even though it's cool Upcountry, the July sun can be a scorcher. Do take some time out before (or after) the parade to peruse Makawao's many art galleries, shops, and unique eateries. Do bring a few bucks to buy a rodeo program book, which offers excellent inside information to those unfamiliar with the sport. Do bring an appreciation and respect for the rich cultural heritage and skills of Hawai'i's paniolo. Not Wanted: Don't park in Makawao town for the parade, as the roads close at 8:45 a.m. and won't reopen until after 11 a.m. (Park at Oskie Rice Arena). Don't bring someone who can't stand a few smells from the farm. 

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Tasting & Toasting at Kapalua

By Bill Harby

Life is hard, especially at the Kapalua Wine & Food Festival. There you are with a bunch of other wine lovers who range from the delightfully clueless to Ph.D.s of pinot, all of you looking at four grueling days and nights at the lush Kapalua Resort, clinking glasses with top wine experts and chefs at nonstop tastings, seminars, cooking demos, and wine-paired luncheons and dinners. But how to choose what to sip, where to sample? How to keep from spilling Bordeaux on your blouse? How to attain the perfect level of illuminated inebriation? Hey, relax. We’ve been there and lived to tell about it.

So sit back, pour yourself a glass of wine (we suggest a refreshing Verdicchio or Tavel to pair with this article), and drink in these tips before attending the 25th annual incarnation of one of the planet’s most luscious celebrations devoted to fermented grape juice. 

Time Management: Like any good marathoner or glutton, you’ll want to pace yourself. At the opening evening’s alfresco reception, you’ll be dazzled by the sight of hundreds of shiny bottles of fine wine from around the globe. But don’t just hold out your glass again and again. Talk to the pourers, tell them what styles of vino you favor—light and fruity? big and tannic? cheap and boozy?—then ask their recommendations. You’ll drink less and discover more—and be in good shape for the next morning’s seminar. 

And Now for Something Completely Different: Raise your right hand and repeat after me: During this festival I will not drink wines I am already familiar with, no matter how much I love them. Instead, I will be an oenological Capt. Cook (or Kirk), exploring exotic regions (Lebanon, New Mexico) and grape varieties (graciano, elbling, liatiko). I do so swear, so help me Bacchus. 

Sage Sommeliers: Just as remarkable as the selection of wines at this festival is the selection of six or eight master sommeliers who walk among the mere mortals throughout the weekend. They lead the seminars, and poetically explicate at tastings and luncheons. These members of the international Court of Master Sommeliers—only 120 of them worldwide—are the Jedi knights of wine. But don’t be shy. These guys and gals are articulate, engaging, irreverent and friendly. Ask them whatever you want to know. (What the hell is “leathery” wine anyway?) It helps to speak their lingo to some degree. So before you go, consider buying a book that will make great bedside reading at the festival and after: Wine Lover’s Companion, by Ron Herbst and Sharon Tyler Herbst. You’ll learn that a “vertical tasting” is not one where you get to keep drinking until you can’t stand up, and that wines often go through a “dumb phase” just like you and me. 

Challenge Yourself: To get beyond that phase, push yourself to attend as many panel discussions and workshops as you can—even when nap time calls after a 10 a.m. tasting. One of the best seminars last year was “Master Sommelier 102.” (This year, “Master Sommelier 103.”) The session was part classroom, part game show. Have Fun No matter what the rascally Fred Dame says, there will not be a test at the end of festival. You paid good money to be here, so eat, drink, drink, drink, and be merry!

Kapalua Wine & Food Festival, July 6–9. Do It: Do drink as much water as you do wine, and nibble while you drink. Do take notes on wines you’ll want to drink again, and take photos of the labels. Do remember that you’re in Hawai‘i. Stop and smell the plumeria (reminiscent of that riesling you just tasted). Refresh yourself with a swim in the ocean (followed by a gulpy, chilled Beaujolais with bread and cheeses). 

Skip It: Don’t wear anything you’d hate to get red wine on. And ladies, for any tastings on the lawn, nix the spike heels. Nothing is sadder than an elegant woman who’s turned her shoe into a golf tee. Don’t find a wine you like at one of the tastings and just keep drinking that. Explore, explore, explore. Don’t be intimidated by the inevitable wine snob you meet. Just say: “Wow, you know so much! Could you please go get me a glass of something you really recommend?” You can keep him going like that and have your own personal waiter. A four-day festival pass includes: admission to seminars, the Saturday and Sunday cooking exhibitions, a welcome reception, and golf tournament, and is priced at $650.00.  (This does not include admission to In the Kitchen with Julian Serrano or Saturday’s Winemaker Dinners.) Special early ticket pricing for the Seafood Festival and Grand Tasting are $125.00 each per person before June 16 and $145 after. Selected tastings, seminars and dinners may be purchased separately. For information and reservations: (866) 669-2440. Or go to www.kapaluamaui.com.

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·Chef's Corner

Flank steak with Maui Gold Pineapple relish
 

This yummy steak and Maui Gold pineapple recipe came from the "Authentic Tastes of Paradise" recipe booklet by Maui Pineapple Company.  You can find more great pineapple recipes on their website at http://www.mauipineapple.com. 

Prep time: 20 minutes – Cook time 25-30 minutes
Marinate time: several hours or overnight

Makes 6 servings.

2 cups diced Maui Gold Pineapple
1 (8-oz.) can tomato sauce
2 chipotle chile peppers, minced
plus 1 tablespoon adobo sauce
(from 8-oz. can)
1 (2 to 2 1/2-lb.) flank steak
1 tablespoon oil
1 medium red onion, peeled,
quartered and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon garlic salt
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Chopped fresh cilantro

Place 1 cup chopped pineapple, tomato sauce, chipotle peppers and adobo sauce in a large zip top bag, squeezing the bag to release the juice from the pineapple.
Place the steak in the marinade and seal the bag. Refrigerate several hours or overnight.

Place steak on grill over high heat and cook for 4 to 6 minutes on one side to sear. Turn and cook for 2 to 5 minutes more for medium-rare, or until steak reaches desired doneness. Remove from grill and let stand for 5 minutes before slicing. Meanwhile, cook the onion in oil in a large skillet for 20 minutes over low heat, stirring frequently. When onions are soft, stir in the remaining pineapple, sugar, vinegar and garlic salt. Let cool.

To serve, slice the steak thinly at an angle and serve with the pineapple onion relish and chopped fresh cilantro.